MALAWI 2010 - Trip Across Africa DAY #1

Lilongwe, Malawi
Monday, June 28, 2010
.
Trip Across Africa DAY #1
At 4:15am this morning, we set off on our trip across Africa from our home in Lichinga, Mozambique. We left as early as we did today because we wanted to make it to Zambia before sundown. It was a good thing, too, because as usual, things take longer than usual. Our trip to the Mozambique/Malawi border was the normal 2 1/2 hour drive over dirt and gravel roads. They have graded that particular road since rainy season, so it was a nicer, less-bumpy ride than it has been in the past.
.
We got through the Mozambique/Malawi border by 9:00am and headed across Malawi. When we have driven into Malawi in the past, we have always headed south toward the city of Blantyre. Today’s journey took us northeast through the capital city of Lilongwe. It was a beautiful drive, hugging Lake Malawi for part of the way, right up near Monkey Bay, as you can see from our GPS map. There was one part of the journey that was especially exciting. It was through some mountains not too many kilometers from Lilongwe. There were steep switchbacks that wound us up and down mountains. There were sporadic villages hidden within this mountain range which was an awesome sight. We also drove right by a group of very confident baboons. Normally, in Mozambique, when we have driven near baboons they have taken off in the other direction. Not these baboons. They boldly approached our Nissan Terrano with no fear of man. This enabled Jonas to get some good close-up pictures of them.
.
There are quite a lot of police check points in Malawi. About half of the time they just wave us through without stopping. The other half of the time they stop and ask us various questions, which we usually answer to their liking. On previous trips to Malawi we are often asked for "gifts" from the police, from money, to beer, to Fanta soft drinks. We didn’t get much of that today, but I was stopped and told I was speeding, doing 60 kilometers per hour in a 50 kilometer per hour construction zone. They had their radar out and all. But I know I wasn’t going that fast I was watching the speedometer the entire way, as I have gotten a speeding ticket in Malawi on a previous trip. I first asked him to show me the radar with how fast I was going, which he wouldn’t. Then I simply apologized for my "transgression" and asked for forgiveness, which never worked in the past. He insisted I pay 5,000 Malawi Kwacha (about $28 U.S.), which I insisted was too much. He saw I was drinking a Red Bull. I asked him if he wanted one. He took my "gift" of the Red Bull, which cost me only $1 U.S. He then let me go without having to pay the fine, which is amazing for the police here in Malawi

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.
We ate lunch and fueled up in Lilongwe and headed for the Zambia border. At lunch, we had Jonas and the girls save seats at a table in the crowded fast food restaurant, so that I could order for everyone. Two Malawian women and one man, in plain sight, told the girls to move out of their way so they could have a table, and took their seats. These were very nicely dressed business man and women. I told the women that what they did was not right, that our children were saving those seats for our family, and that they should give the seats back to our children. They just looked at us with fake smiles refusing to do so. Usually I would let this type of thing go. But we were trying to hurry up and get back on the road. So right or wrong, I got the manager and told him what happened. Only when the manager came out did they get up and leave. No big deal. I wasn’t too upset. I just couldn’t believe the audacity of them, and was actually glad in the end that they knew what they did was wrong and that maybe they would think twice about doing it again. Who knows? I was friendly, yet firm the entire time. We didn’t let this dampen our spirits, and continued to enjoy the rest of our journey to the Malawi/Zambia border.
.
Christian Young